Balenciaga's Designer Promotes Women's Liberation with Loose-Fitting Runway Show.

While recent appointments at Dior and Chanel sparked major attention during the ongoing Paris fashion week, it was the first show from the fashion house that utterly dominated the press coverage. The event featured a stunning front-row presence: the Duchess of Sussex, Meghan, making her first European appearance in three years.

That Saturday night in Paris, the razzle-dazzle of other major houses – plus Lauren Sanchez – paled in comparison with the sheer impact of the Balenciaga presentation.

Meghan delivered significant star power to the Parisian runway.

Before this development, the prevailing sentiment surrounding Pierpaolo Piccioli’s debut had been rather peaceful. The fashion house is a time-honored label, and the designer is universally praised as a world-leading designer. Moreover, he is admired for his reputation as the most congenial figure in the industry. The general expectation was that extravagant catwalk stunts had left the brand's identity with the exit of provocateur designer Demna to Gucci. Yet, sometimes the most gentle individuals can deliver surprises, and the presence of a duchess significantly amplified the level of hoopla.

He views himself as an design visionary, building silhouettes that never touch the wearer's physique.

Intriguingly, the core concept of Piccioli’s “manifesto”, as he described it behind the scenes, was female emancipation. His initial inspiration was Cristóbal Balenciaga’s 1957 sack dress, a silhouette that stands away from the body, neither amplifying nor constricting a female form. The designer explained that this design was a radical expression of a changing spirit of the times that was beginning to move from the 1950s conservatism towards the more free-spirited era. The idea centered on female empowerment. It freed women from the burden of garments that rest heavily on the physique and talk about their body. That garment enabled women to exist unencumbered.”

Balenciaga’s most iconic silhouettes made an appearance in the runway, such as this enveloping coat.

Apparel with independent structure are at the heart of the the brand's ethos. The designer likened this creative process to being an master builder: building forms that do not touch the body, while always thinking about the individuals who will wear and move in them. The founder was fascinated by the physique and with textiles, and with a key factor – the air between the two.”

The opening look was a modern reinterpretation of the iconic dress, extended to an ankle-skimming hem, paired with elegant gloves – but also with oversized sunglasses that acted as a obvious reference to the apocalypse-chic of Balenciaga’s Demna era.

Piccioli, who at his current age adorns himself with beaded necklaces and exudes an air of hippie-ish serenity, is not interested in seeing fashion as an ego battle. He believes that it is more admirable for designers to respect each other’s skills. The creative director expressed that he was seeking a harmonious balance between the traditional craftsmanship of the house, and its more contemporary urban phase. Balenciaga’s most iconic silhouettes were prominently featured in the show: a voluminous outerwear piece, this time in a bold green hue, and a flared dress in a intense purple color.

The concept of effortless French fashion has become a highly profitable trend. The American designer is an designer from the US, but he understands this aesthetic perfectly. Rider had a professional relationship with a fashion icon during her period as creative director, and then devoted a half-decade building the classic label into a flagship for accessible taste. In his current role, he is infusing the democratic approach of Polo to the local aesthetic. He presented timeless coats, woven bags, and luxury fabrics tied around bags – the signature details of French-girl chic – designed with sunny colors, with an upbeat American tone. The brand is welcoming, or a brand that wants to exclude people,” he commented after the show. The goal is for everyone feels desirable in the brand. By choosing these pieces, you may not have the most outrageous item, but you have the perfect garment, and you have the self-assurance to wear it.”

Rebecca Peters
Rebecca Peters

Tech enthusiast and writer with a passion for exploring how emerging technologies shape our future.