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When curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar award-winning venues. Yet, tucked high among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has left the owners totally surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” says a proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary achievement.